Saturday, July 28, 2007

EASY DOES IT; DRYING PLATFORM

Speed up drying time by placing the item on a platform...one that allows air to circulate over and around the item. The other half of that plastic needlepoint canvas sheet (Presssure and thermal embossed card, July 1) and five or six twist off bottle caps (Burnishing tool, June 27) is all it takes to make a handy-dandy drying platform.

Although optional, it's a good idea to spray both sides of the canvas with a silicone spray ($1.00 variety found in the car department of either a grocery or drug store); the silicone will prevent items from sticking to the canvas. Place the plastic canvas on the bottle caps...one at each corner and a couple in the middle. More caps may be needed to support the canvas when heavier items are placed on it.

Place the item being dried on the canvas and allow to dry. To eliminate curled edges and/or buckling, either turn the item over periodically during the drying period or place weight on the item.

That's it...

Monday, July 23, 2007

WORTHY OF MENTION: EMBOSSING POWDER CANDY STORE

The Embossing Powder Candy Store is the ultimate spot for embossing powders. It's all there...and all of it is better than the best.

Liquid Glass is the chunky stuff, and the array of colors is incredible. Melded Metallic is unlike any other powder you'll find. Then there's those gorgeous Pearl colors. True eye candy.

Foil & Flock is the 'sticky when melted' stuff. Use a quick hand when heating it; immediately stop heating as soon as the powder begins to shine. Too much heat eliminates the stick.

The Fine Line powders are the ones to use when thermal embossing highly detailed stamps. Transparent over a colored ink is the way I usually go.

A few embossing tips:

1. Keep your powder dry! Store powder in tightly closed containers or zip- plastic bags; place one or two silica packets from either vitamin bottles or shoe boxes in the container or bag.

2. Keep your paper dry! Paper is like a sponge and soaks up any moisture in the air (humidity, cooking, showers, etc.). Store paper in closed containers (drawers, plastic boxes, etc.) with some of those silica packets.

3. Keep your fingers off the paper! Handle paper by the edges as much as possible. Every finger or palm print is a powder-grabber thanks to the oil in your skin.

4. Inks containing either glycol or glycerin (pigment, embossing, etc.) dry slowly and are best used when thermal embossing.

5. After sprinkling the powder over the image, dump off the excess powder onto a piece of scrap vellum that has a creased fold line. Tap the excess powder into the fold, then into the storage container or bag. Set the vellum aside.

6. Turn the paper with the image sideways, and give the paper a good snap (third finger/thumb) on the back to get rid of any lingering EP. If you have a reasonably well-inked pad, and the image was evenly inked, there'll be plenty of EP on the image. If you are concerned, tip the paper toward the light...you'll be able to see the powder on the image.

7.  Turn on the gun and let it heat up for a few seconds before aiming it at an area of embossing powder.  Hold the gun four to six inches above the paper; DO NOT move the nozzle of the gun until the powder in that area has melted.  Slowly move the nozzle to an adjoining area,melting that powder.  Repeat until all powder is melted.

8. Don't overheat the powder. EP melts between 260 - 280 degrees; a blow torch isn't needed (neither is a paint stripper ). If the powder doesn't melt the way it should, chance are good that moisture, not the powder, is the culprit. Heat both sides of paper with a heat gun before stamping if you're having moisture problems.

Click WORTHY OF MENTION (above)  to see and savor the goodies at the Candy Store...

Friday, July 20, 2007

EASY DOES IT; BURNISH THOSE ADHESIVES!

Here's an easy solution to eliminate sticky edges that can result when an item has been run through a Xyron. With the white release paper up, use moderate pressure to burnish (twist cap from bottle, edge of charge card, edge of craft stick, etc.) along all outer edges of the item. Turn over and remove the clear liner.

If you've had problems with either Xyron or sheet adhesives adhering unevenly to thin and/or fragile papers (mulberry, wrapping tissue, etc.), burnishing usually solves the problem. With the white release paper up, use moderate pressure to burnish the entire surface of the item. Turn over and remove the clear liner.

Remember, burnishing is still needed when these items are adhered to another surface. When burnishing fragile papers, place a scrap piece of vellum over the paper.

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

MAKE IT EASY: DIY EMBOSSING FOLDERS/PUNCHES SHAPES

These are the negative and positive shapes when a piece of Scratch Art Scratch-Foam Sheet is punched. The negative is on the left; the positive is on the right. A McGill, Inc. dragonfly punch was used for this sample.

Decorated paper placed in the folder under the negative (mortise) shape. The paper entends beyond the top edge of the folder so the embossed image will be on the card front; the lower end of the folder is slightly visible at the bottom the picture.

To emboss: burnish the negative shape; turn the folder over and burnish the positive shape (the dragonfly).


Multiple shapes positioned in one folder. Note the crease line down the center of the folder (ignore the copper looking thing on the left side of the folder...haven't the faintest idea what it is!). When the folder is closed, the shapes will be aligned.

Tips:
Cardstock probably will need to be dampened.

Be sure the positive and negative shapes align when the folder is closed.

Scratch Art Scratch-Foam slides easily into the front of a punch.

The punched shapes (positive and/or negative) can be inked if desired. Clean off ink immediately after use.

A medium weight acetate is recommended for the DIY folder; pre-test if using another weight.

Attach the shapes to the inside of the folder with a repositionable glue as directed in the July 14 post.

To apply glue to small positive shapes: attach the negative shape to one side of the folder; place the positive shape on a piece of paper so that the side receiving the glue is up; apply the glue and dry to a tacky state; pick up the positive shape with the tip of a craft knife; position the shape into the negative shape; close the folder the burnish the back of the positive shape. You also can use this method for small shapes cut from Foamies with a die cut machine

If using a Sizzix, rather than burnishing by hand: attach the Systems Converter under the Pressing Plate; place the paper in the correct position inside the folder; place the folder on the white cutting Pad; cover the folder with a piece of 6 MM Foamies; pull the handle down, ensuring that all areas of the folder containing shapes have been under the Pressing Plate.

If using a roller-type die cut machine, rather than burnishing by hand: test to determine the correct sandwich.

The sky's the limit with this stuff...go for it!

Saturday, July 14, 2007

MAKE IT EASY: DIY EMBOSSING FOLDERS/DIE CUT SHAPES


These instructions for DIY embossing folders use shapes cut with a die cut machine. In a couple days, I'll post instructions for folders using shapes punched with a hand punch. The good news is that a die cut machine is not needed for pressure...your fingers do the walking! But, if you want to use your machine, that's fine with me.

The die used in the pictures is a Sizzix heart. This die was selected so you could see how the shapes from a three-pieced die are used. I generally use either 2 MM Foamies or Scratch Art Scratch Foam Boards as the supply for the shapes. These supplies are not affected by dampness, and both can be inked. Other supplies can be used, but they must be 'cuttable' by the die cut machine you're using. Regardless of the supply used for the shape, a sheet of clear medium weight acetate is used as the folder.

Fold the acetate in half (long way); burnish the fold line so that the acetate is flat when folded. Note the creased line down the center of the acetate in the first picture.

Open the acetate and adjoin the pieces on one side of the opened acetate as seen in the second picture. Place repositionable glue on the two shapes that are tinted orange (the inner and outer shapes); allow the glue to dry to a tacky state. When the glue is tacky, close the folder and lightly burnish the acetate in the areas over the glue.

Turn the folder over (the orange shapes will be down). Open the folder and apply repositionable glue to the back of the shape (the white shape) that was not glued to the acetate. Apply a few drops of the glue along the outer edges of two corners of the folder. Prop the acetate open and allow all glue to dry to a tacky state. When the glue is tacky, close the folder and burnish the acetate in the areas over the glue.

When the folder is opened, the shapes will be attached to the inside of the folder as seen in first picture. The glue applied to the corners will ensure the folder will stay closed, keeping the shapes in the correct position.

Some tips:
The deep impression made by Foamies might be too much for some projects.

Cardstock probably will require being dampened.

Ink can be applied to the negative and/or positive shape if desired. After embossing clean off the ink from the shapes.

The bottle-cap burnisher is perfect for this technique. (see Weekly tip, June 27).

Repositionable glue provides options in the placement of the shapes within the folder (i.e., borders, off-center, etc.).

Never hurts to do a test or two before jumping into a project....

Here's how it's done by hand
1. Open the folder.
2. Position the paper over the shapes on one side of the folder.
3. Close the folder.
4. Ensure that the positive and negative shapes align.
5. Burnish one side of the folder over the shapes.
6. Turn the folder over and burnish over the shapes.
7. Remove the paper from the folder.

Here's how it done with a Sizzix die cut machine
Plan to fiddle a bit to find the sandwich which works best for your machine if it isn't a Sizzix, then follow steps 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6.
1. Open the folder.
2. Position the paper over the shapes on one side of the folder.
3. Close the folder.
4. Ensure that the positive and negative shapes align.
5. The Systems Converter must be in place for either Foamies or Scratch-Foam shapes; a piece of 2MM Foamies placed over the folder also is required for Scratch-Foam shapes. Ensure that all areas of the shapes have been under the Pressing Plate.
6. Remove the paper from the folder.

Go have some fun!!

Friday, July 13, 2007

MAKE IT EASY: VELLUM GIFT CARD

This image was a free sample sent in a Dover Publication e-mail (see WORTHY OF MENTION, July 7). Love it! The original image was larger than I wanted, so I set my printer program to the wallet setting and selected one print.

One tip...when you save a free Dover image to your hard drive, be sure to label it so you know which Dover book it came from. It's very frustrating to have a fantastic image and not knowing
which of the bizillion Dover books it came from. Don't bother asking me which Dover book has this image...

After printing the image on Grafix Platimun Vellum, I ran over to my thermal embossing table (it's across the room from my computer...but that's another story) and sprinkled Detail Clear Embossing Powder Candy Store Powder over the image, shook off the excess and melted the powder. The ink won't be absorbed instantly by the vellum, so you'll have time to get the powder sprinkled on the image...provided you don't fiddle and diddle after printing.

This vellum is heavy, and it didn't distort when I was heating the powder. Also helps that my heat gun isn't a paint stripper...I don't like those super hot guns so never use them.

After the paper cooled, it was folded along the top edge of the vase to form the card. The card was placed on a flat surface with the image side down.

A piece of 3L Scrapbook Adhesives Adhesive Transfer sheet was positioned with the top edge of the adhesive along the fold line at the top of the image.

The release paper was removed from the adhesive, and a piece of vellum slightly larger than the image was placed on the adhesive. Two thickness of vellum are needed for the front of the card so that any writing will not be visible through the image. The card was folded and cut out along the outer edges (don't cut along the fold line!).

Staedtler Photo Decorating Pens Pastels were used to color the image. These pens provided a muted look and were perfect for this vellum which has a soft iridescent pearl-like appearance.

If you'd prefer a greeting card rather than a gift card, select a larger image from your printer program...or how about a full sized image with a black velvet paper mat in an antiqued gold frame?

Decisions, decisions...

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

EASY DOES IT: FANCY EDGE CIRCLES

Here's what you need: air erasable marking pen; small spacer bead; Quilter's Wonder Wheel; 2 MM Foamies (a craft foam) and/or Scratch Art Scratch Foam; circle die for a die cutting machine and/or circle hand punch; decorative edge scissors; repositionable glue or tape.

The aqua Air Erasable Fabric Marking Pen (thin point) is from Collins, Inc., as is the Quilter's Wonder Wheel; the pink Air Erasable/Eraser Pen is from Clover Needlecraft, Inc. You don't need both pens; I included two in case you had problems finding one. Both Collins and Clover products are found in the quilting departments in crafts and fabric stores. Spacer beads are in the bead department of a crafts stores. And you know where all the other stuff is (in that pile under your desk).

The red circle was cut from Foamies with a Sizzix die; the white circle was punched from Scratch Foam with a hand punch. A light coating of repositionable glue was added around the edge of the circle and allowed to dry to a tacky state. It's not a problem if you don't have a die cut machine, circle punches are avaible in a variety of sizes.

Position the circle on the paper and burnish lightly to secure the bond; it's important that the edge of the circle is secure on the paper so that the Wheel or spacer does not slide under it when tracing. A Wonder Wheel tracing will be 1/4" from the edge of a circle; a spacer tracing will be 1/8" from the edge of a circle.

Place the marking pen so that is perfectly upright in the center hole of the Wheel or spacer. With the edge of the Wheel or spacer flush against the edge of the circle, move the Wheel (spacer) around the edge. Pick up the circle and set it aside.


Sitting is recommended when cutting out the circle. Cut away excess paper from the traced circle. Hold the scissors with the points straight out in front of you as you cut; remember to rotate the paper, not the scissors, when cutting. Cut small sections at a time to maintain the pattern of the decorative edge.


There's a lot of ways this technique can be used, but probably the one that is most obvious is the 'scallop edge circle inside a circle' design that seems to be every one's favorite right now. Course, you could alter it slightly and use another design for the edge...no rules says you can't!
Just in case you wondered...air erasable marking pens are the ticket when you need a mark or two on a layout or card front or collage. The markings disappear within 72 hours. However, PRE-TEST before you start. I have yet to have a mark linger, but there's always a first time.
And yep...the spacer bead and the air erasable marking pen is the perfect tracing combination when you aren't cutting out an image directly on the stamped line.

Saturday, July 7, 2007

WORTHY OF MENTION: DOVER PUBLICATIONS

Dover Publications has books, books and more books, plus a long list of graphic CDs...hard to imagine they wouldn't have the title you want.

Although most Dover publications are copyright free, be sure to read the fine print on the back of a book.

Go to the Dover site (http://store.doverpublications.com/) and click Free Samples at the top of the page. That's the ticket to receiving weekly free samples that can be downloaded. Don't you love this free stuff?

Wednesday, July 4, 2007

EASY DOES IT: ADD A GRID TO AN ACRYLIC BLOCK


There's a couple of ways you can place a grid on an acrylic block: position the block over a piece of 1/4" graph paper and CAREFULLY trace the grid on the block with a permanent marker (tedious, tedious, tedious!); buy a sheet of 1/4" grided quilting template plastic, use scissors to cut a piece to the size of the block, and stick it on one side of the block (quick as a wink!). No more ungrided acrylic blocks...

Grided template plastic is sold by the sheet or in a packaged assortment of plain and grided pieces. The grid will be in red, blue or black (depends upon the brand). Needless to say, it's found in the quilting section of crafts and fabric stores, and it's very reasonably priced.

I use Scotch Poster Tape to attach the plastic grid to the block. Then if (when) the grid gets grungy, it's quickly replaced. If you're using a cling system, place the UMs on the ungrided side of the block.

Tuesday, July 3, 2007

MAKE IT EASY: PAPER CASTING/ DIY ALCOHOL INK


Not quite sure why, but this picture doesn't depict the colors of inks I used for this card...the inks I used are given in the instructions.


White glossy card stock (Pacon Fadeless Art Board) was the background for this card. Two Clearsnap Ancient Page inks (Emerald and Saffron) were blended with 70% Isopropryl alcohol (one part ink to four parts alcohol); each blend was put into a separate fine mister bottle. The Emerald blend was lightly misted over the paper, followed by a light misting of the Saffron blend. The inks were heat set and the card stock was creased so that the fold was across the top of the card. The fold line was burnished flat, and the card was set aside.

Tissue paper and Sulky Paper Solvy was layered on an All Night Media Spiral Frame with water that had been lightly tinted with Emerald Ancient Page (see Worthy of Mention, Sulky Paper Solvy, June 20 entry, for instructions). When the tissue was dry, an Ancient Page Saffron pad was lightly patted over the raised areas and detail gold embossing powder was immediately (immediately!) sprinkled over the inked areas. The powder was melted with a heat gun. The center opening of the paper casting was cut out.

A piece of scrap white card stock was cut to a piece that was 1" wider and 1" longer than the opening of the frame. The 'be' stamp (All Night Media) was inked with Ancient Page Emerald and set aside. Embossing ink was patted over the cut piece of card stock; Embossing Powder Candy Store Gold Liquid Glass was sprinkled over the paper and melted. A second coat of Gold Liquid Glass was immediately sprinkled over the first coat and melted. The inked stamp was immediately placed in the still warm Liquid Glass; the stamp was left in place until the powder had cooled (less than five minutes).

The paper casting of the frame and the thermal embossed card stock stamped with 'be,' were run through a Xyron 510. A twist-off bottle cap was used to burnish all areas of the white liner on the fronts of the pieces (see Easy Does It, Weekly tip, June 27 entry) to secure the adhesive to the surfaces and to eliminate sticky edges. The thermal embossed piece (with the 'be' image) was positioned on the front of the card; the paper casting of the frame stamp was positioned over the thermal embossed piece. All areas were burnished to secure the bond.

There's not one drop of either pink or blue ink on this card, not one drop... Honest!

Sunday, July 1, 2007

MAKE IT EASY: PRESSURE AND THERMAL EMBOSSED CARD


White card stock was pressure embossed with a piece of plastic needlework canvas. The squares are glossy card stock colored with copper reinker and alcohol that was pressure embossed with a Cuttlebug Folder.

To make the copper pieces, 1/2 teaspoon of Clearsnap ColorBox MetaleXtra Copper was blended with 1/4 teaspoon of Isopropryl Alcohol (70%) and brushed over glossy card stock. When dry, the paper was embossed with the Cuttlebug folder. A pad of copper MetaleXtra was lightly wiped over a portion of the embossed card stock. A small amount of Verdigris embossing powder was sprinkled over the copper and heat set. The paper was cut into 1 1/2" squares, and a strip was cut from a scrap piece of the paper. The two squares and the strip were run through a Xyron. The additional squares were set aside for later use.

As directed in the June 23 entry, Pressure Embossing: paper with stencils, card stock was dampened on both sides; the System Converter was placed under the Pressure Plate of the Sizzix. A piece of plastic canvas was placed on the white Cutting Pad. The dampened paper was placed on the plastic canvas; 6mm Foamies was placed over the paper. The handle of the Sizzix was pulled down to emboss the paper. After the paper was dry, it was folded (note that the ends on the front of the card are offset).

White vellum was cut to fit inside the card and adhered in place with Scotch Vellum Adhesive. The copper pieces and the strip were adjoined to the front of the card.

Don't suppose you need to be told I'm a copper lover...